<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>askthearchitect &#187; Q&amp;A</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 10 Jan 2011 14:12:59 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.3</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Stumped By A Shed Roof</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/shed-roof-home-additions</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/shed-roof-home-additions#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 22:01:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shed-roof-home-additions]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=156</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“My wife and I own a three-story contemporary built around 1970. The side elevation consists of two opposing shed roofs joined by a recessed hyphen. Because the house is built on a slope, one enters at mid-level. The front is non-descript board-cladding with just a single window. The inside, however, is quite dramatic with large window walls on the side and rear elevations visually linked to the woods. The home’s only drawback is a small kitchen linked to an equally pint-sized breakfast room that segues to an elevated side deck. We’ve been thinking about converting the deck into a larger eat-in kitchen, using the existing kitchen as a pantry, storage area. I hesitate, however, because I’m not sure how an addition will look in relation to the opposing sheds that define the side elevation. For instance, should the addition repeat the shed roof (which might obstruct an existing third floor window), or is a completely different type of roof line feasible?” FT, Reston, Virginia]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>Reston is fortunate to have many contemporary style homes. Washingtonians often tell me they are frustrated that they find so few contemporary style homes in the metro area and are overwhelmed with the abundance of colonials. The use of shed roofs in contemporary home design was popular in the 1970’s and early 1980’s and is often attributed as originating with the work of architects Charles Moore and Robert Venturi. Reston, being a forward-looking planned-community, sought out these modern home designs. In this contemporary style various blocks, each with a shed roof, were arranged in functional groupings to create a visually pleasing and sculptural appearance. As you have described with your home, entrances are often recessed or obscured for privacy.</p>
<p>You are right to be careful about how you handle the design of your addition. The design of shed roof style homes require that the massing of forms and their proportions be aesthetically pleasing. A badly handled design will diminish your home’s value. Most shed roof contemporaries utilize two or three shed roofs in an asymmetrical arrangement.</p>
<h2>Roof Forms</h2>
<p>In terms of the design for your new addition, I suggest that the existing house remain the dominant form within the design. I see three ways that the addition can be designed depending upon site conditions. In each scheme the new addition should be subordinate to the original house and the new roof pitch should resemble the existing.</p>
<ol>
<li>The      addition can be designed as a smaller separate block with a shed roof      turned perpendicular to the existing larger roof. Depending upon site      conditions it might require altering windows at the second floor or      creating an unobtrusive notch in the new roof to accommodate the existing      windows.</li>
<li>Another      option is to extend the existing shed roof out to encompass the addition.      This could be very cost effective but will require careful blending of old and new materials which might be tricky because of the age of your house.</li>
<li>A third scheme, and more difficult to achieve, is a flat roofed cube-like addition. With the right proportions and roof details for water drainage,      the “cube” form can be visually pleasing and unique. This design will require a slightly sloped roof to drain rain water, concealed by a low parapet. An architect can help you with this design concept.</li>
</ol>
<p>A shed roof has the benefit of the large vaulted interior space it creates. As you mentioned, your home has a dramatic interior with large expanses of glass. With your new addition it is possible to have a vaulted ceiling in your kitchen or breakfast room which greatly enhances the drama of the space.</p>
<h2>Exterior Materials</h2>
<p>The contemporary nature of the shed roof style home requires that the exterior materials be simple, often uniform and accentuate the simple block forms of the design. For this reason, architects Charles Moore and Robert Venturi typically utilized wood-shingles as an exterior skin. Cladding for most contemporary shed roof homes ranged from wood-shingle, horizontal, vertical and diagonal boarding, which is sometimes mixed with brick veneer or stucco. Occasionally the shed roofs are clad in metal or wood-shingles. Most frequently these homes utilize a cost-effective asphalt shingle.</p>
<h2>Fenestration</h2>
<p>The window styles for shed roof contemporary homes are usually simple. Large expanses of glass without mullions are used in the designs to maximize views, natural light and bring the outdoors inside. Casement windows, awning windows, slide-by windows, or fixed glass panels are typically found. Double-hung windows, common in Colonial style homes, are rarely used in contemporaries. Sliding glass doors and double French doors can also be found. In recent years homeowners have begun to replace the old single-glazed windows of the 1970s with energy efficient double glazed units.</p>
<h2>Old deck</h2>
<p>You mentioned building the new kitchen addition in the footprint of your existing deck.  However, your old deck will not be structurally appropriate for your new kitchen addition, so it must be removed. You can add a new deck beyond the addition if local zoning laws allow for it. Every addition requires a proper foundation and ideally it should be masonry.</p>
<p>These design guidelines will help you in planning your home’s new addition and when communicating with the design professional of your choice. For further design and construction guidelines contact your local neighborhood association.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc, a residential architecture, interiors and construction practice. For questions about architectural style considerations in the greater Washington area, consult our free resources at www.wentworthstudio.com or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/shed-roof-home-additions/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Popping-Up Grandma&#8217;s Folk Victorian</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/folk-victorian-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/folk-victorian-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:52:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[folk-victorian-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=150</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I own a one-story home (formerly a farmhouse), which I occupy with my daughter (age 11) and son (age 13). A friend tells me it's a "folk" Victorian, probably built around 1905. It has an L-shaped floor plan consisting of a gabled front with side-facing wing
unified by large front porch. It also has a replacement tin roof. While it's a simple house, the porch has the original spindle work detailing and there are period brackets under the eaves and pediments over the windows. Now that my children are getting older and searching for privacy, I'd like to add a second story. What are some guidelines that will help me gain the desired new space while preserving the home's classic look?” FT and Family, Chantilly, VA
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2 style="text-align: center;">Answer:</h2>
<p>You do indeed own a fast-disappearing classic, and your concern for preservation is well-placed. Homes in this style were common from 1870 to about 1910, so yours was likely built at the end of the 40-year late-Victorian period in which this idiom flourished. The &#8220;folk&#8221; modifier, incidentally, simply clarifies that these homes were usually built by local carpenters who embellished their work with brackets, spindles, and other decorative millwork ordered from catalogs and transported to the site (along with the lumber) by rail. As a rule, the selection of decorative elements depended upon what was available- which explains why the ornamental detailing styles on folk Victorians can vary from Italianate to Queen Anne to Gothic Revival. A good first assignment for you: identify the style of all existing design elements. This is critical in a cohesive remodel.</p>
<p>An L-shaped floor plan with front-facing gable roof and a front porch is found in both one- and two- story variants&#8211; so it will not be difficult to develop elevations that provide a new second floor, yet protect the integrity of the original house. Your decision to &#8220;pop-up&#8221; implies that your lot has space limitations. In this case, I recommend a second level that exactly adheres to the footprint of the existing house and doubles the available square footage. The new structure is, therefore, a two-story version of your current house. No problem.</p>
<h3>But here are considerations to help assure the second level is also as seamlessly integrated possible:</h3>
<ul>
<li>This style&#8217;s exterior cladding was typically a cost-effective wood clapboard covering the entire house and painted. Today, however, you can use highly durable <em>cementitous</em> products that resemble wood clapboard, yet sharply improve longevity and ease of maintenance. On the other hand, if your house is clad in vinyl or aluminum and you cannot afford to replace all the siding: a design compromise might be considered. A horizontal band board at the line of the second floor, for instance, creates a transitional device that allows you to combine old first level siding and new second level siding while presenting a balanced and historically accurate facade.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The window style and placement should replicate the home&#8217;s original double-hung wood windows. <em>Do not</em> use vinyl or metal windows and select a <em>mullion pattern</em> that replicates the originals. (Usually 2 lites over 2 lites). With regard to decorative pediments over your windows, it&#8217;s important not to overdevelop an inherently understated style. As such, consider that simple square trim on the second level windows avoid competing with the original window pediments. In your case, less may be more.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The new roof pitch should copy the original and utilize the standing seam tin that was first installed on your home.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The decorative brackets and spindle work should be replicated as complements on the new addition. These decorative elements are what people see first; the siding is merely background. If you are unable to find ready-made components that match the existing &#8211; it is worth spending the money to have them custom made. They are the sizzle in a historically accurate remodel.</li>
</ul>
<p>On the practical matter of floor structures: the former attic floor will have to be heavily reinforced, or replaced with new floor joists sufficient to support the new floor <em>loads</em> (added weight) of your addition.</p>
<p>Lastly, your front porch is the facade&#8217;s most important architectural component. Careful restoration of the railings, columns, spindle work and brackets is critical to the curb appeal of your home&#8217;s presentation. When building a second floor addition, protect your investment with an historically correct porch restoration.</p>
<p>Thoughtful planning and design will enhance your family&#8217;s lifestyle and protect the quality and relevance of this historical property. As ongoing development trends continue, there will be fewer of these Folk Victorian residential treasures. Thank you for respecting architectural history.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc, a residential architecture, interiors and construction practice. For question about architectural style considerations in the greater Washington area, consult our free resources at www.wentworthstudio.com or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/folk-victorian-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Elaborating A Tudor</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/tudor-style-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/tudor-style-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tudor-style-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=145</guid>
		<description><![CDATA["My home is Tudor, built in the late 1920’s. The house features a steeply pitched roof  with the signature stucco and wood-frame effect called “half-timbering” along the second floor of the front facade. I’d like to add a first level den on one side that would be visible from the street. What can you tell me about the style that’s relevant to my plans?" PF, McLean, VA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>There are many classic Tudors homes in northern Virginia. Country Club Hills along the east side of Glebe Road, as well as several older neighborhoods in McLean, Alexandria and Fairfax, derive much of their character from their exceptional Tudors. You should also know about the Newlands/Corby Mansion in Chevy Chase. This textbook example is a showcase of the relevant dormer styles, window types, and richly decorated chimneys. It features uncoursed stone; half-timbering; wide, decorated <em>verge boards</em>; and a stone <em>porte cochere</em>. Architectural scholars swoon over it!</p>
<p>By way of background, Tudor was regarded as an admixture of late Medieval and early Renaissance influences in the period from 1890 when most of the American examples were built. Still, along with Colonial Revival, it was the style-of-choice in the 1920s and 1930s.</p>
<p>Often built for wealthier homeowners, Tudor houses were constructed of solid masonry with elaborate decorative stone and brickwork. They were sometimes called &#8220;Stockbroker Tudors&#8221; because their financially successful owners had frequently made their wealth in the booming 1920s stock market.</p>
<p>Hence, the style fell out of popularity in the more populist post World War II-era when a resurgence of patriotism demanded a more American home style: Colonial Revival. Of course, the fact that Tudor architecture was also expensive to build, not easily replicated and prone to maintenance issues may have been a factor.</p>
<h2>So What’s the Style All About?</h2>
<p>Tudors are characterized by their steeply pitched gable roofs, playfully elaborate masonry chimneys (often with <em>chimney pots</em>), embellished doorways, groupings of windows and decorative “half-timbering”, this last being an exposed wood framework with the spaces between the timbers filled with masonry or stucco.</p>
<h2>Some guidelines you will clearly want to consider when elaborating a Tudor are:</h2>
<p><strong>Materials</strong>: There are several easily identifiable features of American Tudors, the first being stucco walls with or without decorative wood half-timbering. A few houses of this style have weatherboard or shingled walls with stucco and half- timbered gables. Other Tudor-style homes have stone clad walls, often trimmed with a decorative stone. Historically, the most prevalent building material for American Tudors was brick, however, frequently laid out in an elaborate pattern on the first story and presenting a second story of stucco, or wood and false half-timbering, in a decorative pattern.</p>
<p><strong>Roof:</strong> A distinguishing feature of the Tudor house is, of course, the steep gabled roof&#8211; often punctuated with small dormers and clad with slate. The main gable frequently has a secondary side or <em>cross gable</em>. Gable ends are often decorated with <em>verge boards</em> whose decoration ranges from simple to highly carved. One variant is the gable with parapets, which is an English detail.</p>
<p><strong>Windows:</strong> Tudor-style houses usually have casement windows grouped in rows of three or more and framed in either wood or metal. Double-hung windows are less common. Windows are often divided into six or eight panes, sometimes made up of rectangles or (in some cases) arranged<strong> </strong>in a diamond pattern. Windows are usually positioned symmetrically in the main gable</p>
<p><strong>Entrance:</strong> The entrance is part of an asymmetrical assemblage of architectural elements, some decorative and some meant (in the late medieval period) to provide protection from intruders. Added security accrued from the thick masonry wall that allowed the door to be recessed, as well as from a projecting bay window or small roof over the door. Renaissance embellishments included arched openings, board and batten doors, luxurious black metal door hardware and tabs of cut stone set into the brick wall lend a <em>quoin-like</em> effect.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA is the principal of Wentworth Inc., a metro area residential architecture, construction and interior design practice. Questions on residential and architectural styles can be sent to </em><a href="http://www.wentworthstudio.com/"><em>www.wentworthstudio.com</em></a><em> or by calling 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/tudor-style-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Home on the Range: Enlarging and Elaborating Your Ranch House</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/single-story-ranch-style-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/single-story-ranch-style-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:26:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[single-story-ranch-style-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=141</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I own a one-story 2,220 square foot Ranch house built in the mid-1950’s, and I’m looking for more room and a generally more spacious feeling. I’d like to expand and upgrade the kitchen, create a family room, and extend a cramped bedroom and bath. What are some architectural considerations that will ensure that the end results look appropriate?”  K.W., McLean, VA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>The Ranch house is, of course, an American classic. It originated in California in the post-war era and quickly became one of the dominate “modern” architectural languages of America’s suburban landscape. What Ranch homes lacked in distinctive design details they made up for in relative spaciousness, latest conveniences, larger lot sizes, attached garages, and solid construction. Ranch homes also had a particular appeal to growing families seeking to escape urban density for greener, less crowded environs. Larger ranch homes, in fact, are often referred to as a “ramblers” owing to the way the single-story, multi-winged structure opens expansively, utilizes space and rambles across its site. Not coincidentally, the rambling effect may also be one of the reasons why ranch homes are comparatively easy to enlarge— an undertaking that generally takes homeowners on one of two possible routes: up or out.</p>
<p>It should be noted here that architecture classified as “modern” is almost astylistic when compared to the more differentiated design elements of earlier historic languages. In this sense, a ranch is something of a stripped-down, blank slate that can be redefined and accentuated into an authentic architectural statement. On this score, I have seen strikingly beautiful, well-integrated homes in styles ranging from Tudor to Contemporary that started life as a modest ranch. Still, before changing to a radically different language the existing house most be analyzed carefully. To choose an appropriate course of elaboration, you must thoroughly understand what you’ve got.</p>
<p>If your goal is to substantially increase square footage, and the lot is small, the savvy remodeler can implement what is humorously referred to as a “pop-top”. This involves removing the existing roof and building a new second floor above the existing single story. “Pop-tops” can accommodate drastic changes to the home’s original architecture, mainly because a full-scale remodeling of this magnitude will impact all aspects of the existing house. A “popped up” ranch, for instance, can be readily redefined as a Colonial, although Craftsman, Tudor, and even Contemporary are suitable stylistic alternatives. The “pop-top”, however, is a more expensive enlargement strategy (by about 25% or more) than adding a new single-story wing. Among other factors, the plan requires altering the first floor to accommodate a new stair well, reconfiguring existing living space and developing a new façade. As little of the existing house is untouched, “pop-top” remodeling requires vision, commitment and deep pockets.</p>
<p>On the other hand, if you are fortunate enough to have a large lot that accommodates a new rear or side wing (and there are no setback restrictions), you can minimize costs with a new same-level addition. This simpler approach will often allow your family to continue living in the house during the remodeling. Building a wing that forms a courtyard within an “L” plan configuration also has the benefit of creating space for a patio—a change that often improves the home’s indoor/outdoor continuum.  For a cost-effective architectural solution, Ranch houses are most easily elaborated in a Contemporary style. A variation on Contemporary that we frequently use when remodeling ranch homes is Prairie style, a subtype of modern architecture popular in the 1920’s. The Prairie employs hip roofs, overhanging eaves, and horizontal bands of windows with cladding treatments that handily adapt to the specifications of traditional ranch houses.</p>
<h2>The “pop-top” addition</h2>
<p>A “Pop-top” to a Ranch is frequently executed in a traditional Colonial style aesthetic. Because adding a second floor effects all elevations (exteriors), the homeowner can have pretty much any of the desired Colonial sub-types. Roof lines can be made steeper, shapes and sizes of windows changed, and surface materials enhanced. Generally, the second floor addition stays within the existing footprint. As a rule, the two-story house is reconfigured so that the first floor contains the living spaces while the second floor is designated for bedrooms and private baths. A “pop-top” remodeling is only limited by imagination and budget.</p>
<h2>One-story addition</h2>
<p>If your lot is spacious enough to accommodate expansion at the rear or side, integrating a new addition with an existing ranch house can result in a very compelling design&#8211; at about 25% &#8211; 30% less than the cost of a “pop-top” approach. Ideally the addition’s roof lines should match and extend the existing roof. Ranch houses usually have low pitched gable or hip roofs which are easily replicated and emphasize the horizontal. Window styles are simple and range from double-hung to casement to slider. Probably the most important design characteristic of a ranch house is its emphasis on a horizontal rhythm.</p>
<h2>Exterior Materials</h2>
<p>Historically, ranch houses are usually clad in exterior materials that reinforced the horizontal character of the design. Examples are brick, stone, and clapboard. The cladding materials should, thus, be chosen for this purpose. Slim horizontal brick, horizontally cut stone, and long lengths of clapboard all work well to enhance the ranch home’s style.</p>
<p>If you wish to enlarge your ranch home some of the most important considerations are: maintain the horizontal, repeat roof lines, and be consistent with exterior materials. Adhering to these principals will take you a long way towards achieving a sympathetic addition that won’t look tacked on, and will enhance your home’s aesthetic and market value.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc a metro area residential architecture, construction, and interior design practice. Questions on residential architectural styles can be sent to www.AsktheArchitect.org or call 240-395-0705 x 100.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/single-story-ranch-style-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Re-thinking a Federal Style Facade</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/remodeling-addition-federal-style-home</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/remodeling-addition-federal-style-home#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:15:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[remodeling-addition-federal-style-home]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=137</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I live in 20 year old three story Federal style residence that was designed to emulate the homes in this city’s historic district. I’m interested in modifying the front façade by introducing a more pronounced front entrance, larger windows, a new window above the front door, and front-facing dormers on the top floor tucked under a side-gabled roof. While my home is not strictly ‘historic’, I am conscious of its architectural intent and am looking for some guidelines that will help me make style-appropriate changes.” SB, Fairfax, VA ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>You are wise to research first, since the homes you refer to are among the real exemplars of Federal style (sometimes called the <em>Adam</em> style)—a language which dominated the American architecture from 1780 to 1840.</p>
<p>Some historic context is relevant: this is the period in which American independence was firmly established and our unique system of governance was being developed. Continuity with English tradition was one of American architecture’s abiding preoccupations; so too, it’s desire to be associated with even older civilizations.</p>
<p>How made to order, then, the ideas of Robert Adam (1728–1792), a popular British architect, whose work was heavily indebted to ancient Greek and Roman forms.</p>
<p>In its essence, Federal is the style of a young, ambitious nation pointing confidently to its future. Pedimented windows, an entablature with a frieze, the occasional portico find their origin in antiquity, yet Adams was the voice of a decidedly Anglocentric sensibility that, on American soil, found an identity of it’s own&#8211; one proved more practical and adaptable than its European cousin.</p>
<p>It may be the box-like simplicity of the principal subtypes that explains why Federal style homes are found everywhere from New England&#8217;s seaport towns to Savannah, Georgia to Georgetown and Alexandria, VA. While the roof types vary from side-gabled to center-gable to hipped, the core configuration is a box two or more rooms deep with doors and windows arranged in strict symmetry. Hence, the style adapts easily to varied settings. Some of the most frequently touted Federal-style residences in Greater Washington include Woodlawn Plantation (1805) in Virginia, and Tudor Place (1815) and Decatur House (1819), in Washington, D.C.  Within the City of Fairfax good examples are the Draper house (1820), Gunnell House (1832), Ratcliffe-Allison house (1812) all are on Main Street. On Chain Bridge Road you will find the Fairfax Court House (1820) and the Ford Building (1835).</p>
<p>There are also instances of larger structures&#8211; modified with wings or attached dependencies, or even both. You’ll also find elaborate curved or polygonal floor plans such as with the Octagon House, built in 1801 in Washington DC (1799 New York Avenue, NW).</p>
<h2>Making Changes</h2>
<p>As you undertake your research, keep in mind that Federal-style design elements are usually understated. Exterior decoration, for example, is generally confined to a porch or entry element. Compared to a Georgian style house, the columns and moldings are narrow and humble.</p>
<p>Also, Federal-style decoration showcases geometrical concepts. Elliptical, circular, and fan-shaped motifs formed by fluted radiating lines are common. One of the oldest American examples of such flourishes is on the dining-room ceiling of Mount Vernon. Executed in plaster, the design contains an ornamental border festooned by corn husks and a central rosette.</p>
<h2>Some other important considerations:</h2>
<p>The building materials in Federal-style structures vary with location. The homes of the Northeast were typically clapboard. Southern houses were often brick, as are most of the homes in the urban north where fireproofing was desired.</p>
<p>Hip roofs capped by a balustrade, simple gable shapes (such as those on Federal buildings in The City of Fairfax), and even roofs with a center gable crowned by a front façade pediment, are among the most popular Federal roof forms. Dormers often pierce the roof to bring light and space into an attic.</p>
<p>Windows<strong> </strong>are never grouped in the Federal-style house, but arranged individually in strict horizontal and vertical symmetry. Typically, on a large home, the front windows are five-ranked, although there are examples of three and seven-ranked windows. Palladian-style windows are often used in gables as an architectural flourish. Windows are usually double-hung wood sashes with the top sash held in place by metal pins. Thin wooden muntins divide the window into small window lights (panes). Generally, the windows feature six over six lights, although nine over nine and other configurations can also be found.</p>
<p>Befitting its importance, especially when centered on a symmetrical façade, the front door of a Federal home is usually the most decorated part of the exterior. On this score, a semicircular fan light above the door, with or without flanking sidelights, is a favorite device as you will see during your walks. A doorway&#8217;s surround might also include ornate molding or a small entry porch. Decorative moldings, such as tooth-like dentils, are often used to emphasize cornices.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA is the principal of Wentworth, Inc. a metro area residential design and remodeling firm that offers residential architecture, construction and interior design. Send questions to </em><a href="http://www.wentworthstudio.com/"><em>www.wentworthstudio.com</em></a><em> or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/remodeling-addition-federal-style-home/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Elaborating a Center Hall Colonial</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/center-hall-colonial-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/center-hall-colonial-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:52:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[center-hall-colonial-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=134</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I own a two-story center hall brick Colonial, built in the 1940s, and I want to remodel my kitchen and build a family room addition.  What are some architectural considerations that will insure the addition won’t look tacked-on?” RNJ, McLean, VA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>What you’ve described is a home in “Colonial Revival” style, which is the most popular architectural language in northern Virginia’s older suburbs.  Many were built in the 1930s and 1940s, a period during which traditional American styles were enthusiastically re-examined.  The Colonial style is especially well suited to remodeling and expanding, because the massing forms are simple block shapes, making scale and proportion easy to achieve.  Also, materials intrinsic to the period – double-hung windows, clapboard, brick, slate shingles &#8211; are readily available today.  Most of the original period Colonials have a small kitchen in the rear of the house, generally behind the dining room.  Typically, other first floor rooms are located on the opposite side of the center hall.</p>
<p>To preserve the fundamentals of the Colonial style’s architectural language, highest consideration must be given to these four subjects:  Form and Mass, Roof Shape, Exterior Materials and Window Pattern. The following synopsis dictates the critical guidelines for a sympathetic elaboration.</p>
<h3>Form &amp; Mass</h3>
<p>Replicate the home’s original styles of form and mass.  When remodeling a Colonial Revival, I often design the addition at the rear of the kitchen as a small wing (say 16’ x 20’). The new wing provides additional kitchen space and, as appropriate, an adjacent family room.  The resulting L-shape also defines a private outdoor living space (often enhanced by a deck or patio), one that doesn’t block sunlight through the existing rear windows. The L-shaped form retains this style’s massing traditions.</p>
<h3>Roof Shape</h3>
<p>An appropriate roof shape is essential when creating an addition sympathetic to a period home’s original style; the addition’s roof must match the existing home’s roof style and pitch.  For example, most Colonial homes have gabled roofs (also known as “A” shape), which are a safe choice for remodeling.  Whenever possible replicate the same roofing materials, overhangs, and cornice details.  Large or complex design problems may warrant hiring an architect conversant in the particulars of this idiom, one whose experienced I reconciling other roof styles (i.e. gambrel roofs, shed roofs, dormers) with an existing roof.</p>
<h3>Materials</h3>
<p>For an addition, I suggest using a mixture of materials that will help achieve compelling visual variances.  For instance, a brick foundation can pair nicely with clapboard walls.  By contrast, an “all brick” house often looks blocky, boring and heavy.  Attractive colonials utilize a palette of three exterior materials (usually brick, stone and wood).</p>
<h3>Window pattern</h3>
<p>Keep window styles consistent with the original.  Doing so typically calls for windows with muntin bars (grids).  Most Colonial homes have double-hung windows, a secure option when in doubt.  It’s acceptable, however, to mix casement windows into an addition.  A creative architect will be able to develop alternate window designs.</p>
<p>If you adhere to the basic principals of sensitivity for form and mass, roof shape, exterior materials and window pattern, you can achieve a sympathetic addition that won’t look tacked on, and you will most certainly enhance your home’s value.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, a residential architecture, interiors and construction practice. For questions, <a href="http://www.askthearchitect.org">contact us here >></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/center-hall-colonial-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Expanding a Bungalow In Craftsman-style Architecture</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/american-bungalow-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/american-bungalow-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:39:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[american-bungalow-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=130</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I own a classic 1,200 sq foot Bungalow built around 1925, and I want to remodel my rear-of-the house kitchen—as well as build a two story rear addition that will include a new family room below, and master suite above. What are some architectural considerations that will help assure the new space will appear to be a part of the whole and not merely tacked-on?” FM, Great Falls, VA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p><em>With this once-humble American classic now enjoying resurgent popularity, it&#8217;s essential to know how to get more space without sacrificing architectural integrity.</em></p>
<p>Bungalows were this country’s most popular home style during the 1920’s (when homeownership began really rising)—mainly because they offered maximum space for minimal cost. Inspired by Craftsman-style architecture, which was popular from 1905 to about 1930, the bungalow offered a refreshing, functional and aesthetic change from the much fussier Victorian styles.</p>
<p>Many bungalows were, in fact, “kit houses”—literally, purchased from a Sears catalog and delivered, with all the requisite parts, to a site for local assembly. Often some small-scale owner-customizations were introduced prior to construction—so the bungalow’s adaptability was a feature from the start.</p>
<p>Hence, these homes are well-suited for enlargement, so long as the low-pitched roof line is carefully considered. Most bungalows (like yours) have a small kitchen in the rear of the house&#8211;generally behind the dining room. The other half of the first floor usually accommodates the living room&#8211; entered directly from the front door&#8211;and a rear bedroom(s) with bath. Additional bedrooms are generally located on a second floor extended by shed dormers at the front and back of the house.</p>
<p>For those who are keen on preserving the defining fundamentals of this now- resurgent architectural style, three components (and their interrelationships to one another) merit special attention.  These are roof line, exterior materials and window pattern. The following is a synopsis of some seminal considerations to elaborating a sympathetic Craftsman-inspired addition.</p>
<h3>The Addition</h3>
<p>A rear first floor addition you are seeking usually provides an logical area for an expanded kitchen, along with a contiguous family room. If your land slopes away from the house, the new family room can be dropped two steps to gain ceiling height on the first or second floors.  This is also a easy way to assure the privacy of new zones. Likewise, the second floor addition often is designated for the new master bedroom, bath and walk-in closets.</p>
<h3>Roof Line</h3>
<p>When designing a two-story rear addition for a Bungalow, I try to minimize the addition’s height and integrate the new with the old. Bungalows have low pitched roofs, with wide bracketed overhangs and shed dormers. Ideally, the new roof should have the same roof pitch as the existing roof, and the peak should be no higher. Shed dormers can be designed for the addition to maximize interior bedroom/bathroom space on the second floor. This also helps to scale down the mass of the side elevation—an important tactic to achieving an integrated look.</p>
<h3>Exterior Materials</h3>
<p>For a bungalow addition, it is best to use the same exterior material as the original house, which is often cedar shingle or narrow clapboard. Some bungalows were built with brick, stone or stucco.  In these cases, it is appropriate&#8211; and cost-effective&#8211; to clad the new addition in cedar shingle or clapboard. Bungalow foundations are typically of pre-cast block, brick or stone, which can be attractively replicated in the addition.</p>
<h3>Window Pattern</h3>
<p>Keep window style and size consistent with the original house. A typical bungalow will have double-hung windows with muntin bars (grids) in the top sash. Casement windows with a rectangular grid or diamond patterns are also common to bungalows.</p>
<p>If you adhere to these basic rules for the roof line, exterior materials and window pattern, you will achieve a sympathetic addition that won’t look tacked on, and you will most certainly enhance your home’s value.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc, a residential architecture, interiors and construction practice. For questions about architectural style considerations in the greater Washington area, consult our free resources at www.wentworthstudio.com or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/american-bungalow-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Enlarging A French Eclectic</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/french-eclectic-home-addition</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/french-eclectic-home-addition#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:25:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[french-eclectic-home-addition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=126</guid>
		<description><![CDATA["I own a brick home with overtly French influences that was built in the 1980s. There are 5 windows across the front, and our wide central front door is trimmed in stone. The structure is basically a two-story rectangular box, the most compelling feature being the slate-clad hip roof with flared eaves. Three dormers in the roof accommodate attic bedrooms.  I have often seen homes in a similar style with front-facing stone towers, which appeals to me since I’m thinking about adding on.
Specifically, the household has recently grown since we have taken in elderly parents. My wife and I have two teenagers, and one adult child has moved back into the house. We also have two live-in staff. What was a large house when I bought it 15 years ago – now seems crowded. We need more living and bedroom space that is separated from the home’s public areas. What are some considerations to enlarging my house that won’t dilute its architectural style?" B.A.  McLean, VA
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>You face a challenge many Americans confront today: finding sufficient room for an extended family. By way of historical context, your home’s architecture originates with the “French Eclectic” movement, which was popular from 1915–1945.  The style evolved in the United States shortly after WWI, a reflection of the exposure to French architecture by American troops. Photographic studies published in the 1920s also spread the style. Its popularity waned during the 1940s and 1950s, but has regained respect in recent decades. An earlier “Chateauesque” style dates from 1880-1910. This tends to be heavily ornamented architecture and may have had a minor influence on what we see today.  The Biltmore, in Asheville, North Carolina is its best example; but few recently built homes are so ostentatious as to classified as “Chateauesque”.</p>
<h2>A new façade</h2>
<p>You’ve indicated some preferences for remodeling the front facade. Yes, a tower would be appropriate for a home in a French Eclectic idiom. The symmetrical front elevation defined by a course of five windows lends itself beautifully to a two-story front wing extension which can be built to one side of your home forming an “L” plan.  A new round tower, placed at the inside corner of the “L”, might be utilized as a large vestibule or merged with the existing foyer. A round tower with a conical roof form would, thus, become the new main entrance to the home and a visual centerpiece.</p>
<p>You are fortunate to have the style’s signature roof form: a hip roof with flared eaves that curve up slightly.  Some French Eclectic homes were built with simple gable roof form, but “hip” is more definitive and makes for more cohesive elaboration. Hence, any new wing should certainly extend the existing roof form which should be aligned with the existing ridge or slightly lower. Also, replicate the pitch to the existing roof&#8211;and match the slate. This may require some research—but matching is essential to achieving a seamless addition.</p>
<p>On this note, most French Eclectic homes are built of brick or smooth- faced cut stone with contrasting stone trimmings such as lintels, sills and quoins. Details of this sort should be integrated into the addition. Leaded window panes, arched or gabled dormers, quoins, columns, shutters, finials, balusters and half-timbering are also elements that can be added into the style as taste and protocols permit.</p>
<p>Be aware that French Eclectic is a bit idiosyncratic, and its remodeling needs should be handled carefully so as not to cross the invisible line into unacceptable “kitsch.” Designing an addition is opportunity to “raise-the-bar” on the eloquence with which your home’s language is expressed. Be conservative, employing understated tone that yields to the style. To make certain that your project works aesthetically &#8211; encourage your architect to research historic examples that are logically appropriate to the existing home. By studying parallels and borrowing design details and concepts from within the historical architectural context, your new addition will enhance your home and family’s lifestyle.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc, a residential architecture, interiors and construction practice. For question about architectural style considerations in the greater Washington area, consult our free resources at</em><em> www.wentworthstudio.com or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/french-eclectic-home-addition/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Georgian On My Mind</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/georgian-style-home-renovation</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/georgian-style-home-renovation#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:14:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[georgian-style-home-renovation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=121</guid>
		<description><![CDATA["I have recently inherited the Georgian-style home I grew up in, and have been trying to assess its potentials as a residence for my family of five. I believe it was built in the late 1920’s, (so it’s not historic)--but it has all the style’s stately features: pediments over the front door and windows, detailed cornice work, quoins at each corner; a double-hipped roof with two front-facing dormers. Unfortunately, it’s just too small for my three teenagers, so before my family can move in we’ve got to enlarge it.  I’ve got a fairly sizeable lot (about an acre), so I could add-on from either side or the rear. But what would you recommend? Also, I want to remove some interior walls and bring in more light. What are some architectural considerations that will allow for big changes while preserving the integrity of this classic style?" TJ and Family, Herndon, VA]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>This sounds like a home with a lot of potential. Georgians (originally introduced during the reign of England’s King George in the early 18<sup>th</sup> century) were popular in the colonies in the same period, and later “revived” in northern Virginia during the 1920’s and early 1930s. Given the architectural details you’ve described, it seems likely your home was designed by an architect. You might be interested to know that one of the more prominent practitioners of this language—William Lawrence Bottomley&#8211; built a number of renowned Georgians along Richmond’s Monument Avenue in the 1920’s, and his influence was certainly recognized throughout the state.</p>
<p>Of course, options for expanding a home must always begin by checking set-back requirements with your local zoning office, but assuming you can built in any direction, the first question you’ll have to address is: do you want the addition to be <em>traditional </em>or <em>modern</em>?</p>
<p>Specifically, if you’re a strict preservationist, you can design an addition that rigorously adheres to style strictures of the 1920’s original. Ask your contractor to replicate the architectural details precisely. If the addition will be visible from the street, an orthodox approach is probably the best way to converse resale valuations.</p>
<p>On the other hand, if you choose to build a rear addition (and you’re partial to more contemporary lines and spatial concepts), you’ll be glad to know this classic language can reconcile with modern sensibilities rather handsomely.  Smooth surfaces, expanses of glass, and clean lines may provide a pleasing visual contrast to the original architecture.</p>
<p>In either case, the more important consideration is developing design that is sympathetic to the scale and massing of the original home.  Whether the addition is on the rear or the side, proportionality is critical.</p>
<p>With a sufficient budget, and plenty of side yard, your 1920s house could be flanked by a symmetrical pair of additions linked with one-story structures called “hyphens”. An example of a proper local Georgian Style home with hyphens is the Hammond-Harwood House (1774) in Annapolis, Maryland. (See  hammondharwoodhouse.org).</p>
<p>As this structure illustrates, a flanking pair of matching wings will gain you substantial space. One wing might have a master suite bedroom and bath. The opposite wing could accommodate a kitchen and family room. Having the new spaces at opposite ends of the house increases privacy. As an option, you might build just one wing&#8211; though an asymmetrical design is not truly Georgian.</p>
<p>Another, more cost-effective strategy is to expand the home with a two-story rear addition. The first floor provides for a new kitchen and family room. The second floor is designated for additional bedrooms and baths.</p>
<p>Regarding the interior, revisions can be done tastefully by following simple considerations. For instances, a circa-1920’s Georgian usually has nicely detailed formal spaces on the first floor (living room, parlors, dining room, foyer and stair hall), and it is generally beneficial to protect those spaces. On the hand, I have successfully opened up walls to link formal dining rooms to an informal kitchen or family room.</p>
<p>The new design must link the spaces visually, while respecting the original dining room as a defined space. I find this a good way to transition from a formal to an informal space, or from old to new.  Selective moldings and architectural details used at the transition points help augment success. For example: If your dining room is on the rear of the house and your new kitchen is located in the addition &#8211; the rear wall of the dining room could be removed to create a new open floor plan linking the old dining room with a new kitchen.</p>
<p>Ideally an addition, with an open-plan and new family living spaces will suit your family’s needs for years to come—perhaps even allowing you to pass-on your home to the next generation.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is an architect and contractor. He is principal of Wentworth Inc<strong>.</strong>, a metro area residential architecture, construction and interior design/build practice. Questions on residential remodeling styles can be sent to www.wentworthstudio.com or call 240-395-0705.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/georgian-style-home-renovation/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Enlarging a Dutch Colonial</title>
		<link>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/home-addition-to-dutch-colonial</link>
		<comments>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/home-addition-to-dutch-colonial#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Dec 2010 19:56:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Erin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home-addition-to-dutch-colonial]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bluecoronaclients.com/dev/askthearchitect/?p=95</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“I own a Dutch Colonial built around 1925, and am planning a two-story addition that will include a first floor library and an expanded master bedroom suite above. The lot size and setback rules necessitate a side addition—so the view from the street will be affected.  What are some architectural considerations that assure this house retains its curb appeal?” P.S.W. Clifton, VA ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Answer:</h2>
<p>First, it’s important to know something about this style’s history. Dutch Colonials (1890-1930) are a sub-group the Colonial Revival style (1880–1955), which is the single most popular architectural language in the United States. The word “Revival” refers specifically to a fascination with early American English and Dutch design that become popular in the late 19<sup>th</sup> century and continued to generally influence the housing landscape in the period after the World War I. Hence, this style has been revisited by popular culture many times, and retains its value precisely because there is agreement over what elements must be retained, and where there’s a license to personalize.</p>
<p>The hallmark of the style, though, is its practicality. Dutch settlers, in fact, often built homes out of the very bricks they had used as ballast in their voyage over from Europe. Remnants of these one-story structures, built as early as 1625, are still found in parts of New York.</p>
<p>The universally distinguishing feature of A Dutch Colonial is not its siding material, but its roof: specifically, its trademark gambrel roof. Sometimes called a “Dutch roof” or “barn roof”, the design forms a pentagonal gable defined by of a pair of comparatively flat slopes that descend from either side of the center ridge and fan out into a pair of lower steeper slopes. Some historians say Dutch Colonial style is derived from the Flemish farmhouse. In event, by the mid-18<sup>th</sup> century, the gambrel roof was commonly employed in all sorts of non-Dutch settings.</p>
<p>The reason, again: practicality. Homebuilders found that Dutch Colonial homes were notably economical to build since an entire second floor of usable rooms could be contained under the generously spacious gambrel shape—thus, eliminating the need for a full two-story elevation topped by an attic. Enthusiasm for this advantage, fueled the style’s broader acceptance; eventually even Sears Roebuck offered a “Dutch Colonial”-style kit house.</p>
<h2>Elaborating a Dutch Colonial Addition</h2>
<p>With a front-facing addition it is critical to avoid excessive massing. Architecture is about scale and proportionality, so an addition that doesn’t respect the pleasure an eye derives from the measured variance of shapes and forms can quickly devolve into a kind of faceless monolith.</p>
<p>On this point, I recommend that you allow the existing house to remain the dominant visual form (mass) and establish the addition, or wing, as subordinate. This can be done by dropping the roofline over the addition and stepping back its front elevation from the main house. The tactic draws respectful attention to the original house and presents aesthetically pleasing proportions. It’s all about good manners.</p>
<p>Here are some other key considerations:</p>
<p><strong>Roof:</strong> Your addition must employ a gambrel roof that follows the pitch of your existing roof form. Matching the roof shape goes a long way toward blending the new and old. If you want more usable space on the second floor you can increase room size with shed dormers, a well-established style variant. A shed dormer’s roof is an extension of the upper main roof.</p>
<p><strong>Cladding:</strong> A home clad in clapboard, stucco or cedar shingles should generally replicate those materials on the addition. If the main block of your original home is brick or stone, however, I recommend an addition clad in a more humble contrasting material such as wood or stucco since it reinforces the dominance of the main block. Also, varying the exterior cladding material on your addition adds visual interest.</p>
<p><strong>Doors and Windows</strong>: <em>Do</em> replicate the window and door trim of the original house. If your house has wood siding the trim should be in a wide, flat casing. Keep the new window pattern consistent with the existing house; typically double hung windows with six lites over six lites work well. Because you are building a first floor library you may want to maximize incoming natural light by using a nine lite over nine or twelve lite over twelve double-hung window style.</p>
<p>Occasionally the design of the addition can accommodate a few smaller-scale rectangular, oval or round casement windows. However, conservative choices are wise with a front-facing addition.</p>
<p><strong>Summary</strong>: Consistency with proportion, materials, window and door style will ensure that your library addition adds curb appeal. Careful planning for your design will add value to your home financially and emotionally. If your home is within a designated historic district study the recommended guidelines.</p>
<p><em>Bruce Wentworth, AIA, is the principal of Wentworth, Inc a metro area residential architecture, construction and interior design practice. Questions on residential remodeling styles can be sent to www.wentworthstudio.com.</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.askthearchitect.org/home-architecture-questions/home-addition-to-dutch-colonial/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

